# (New camper owner) Water heater question.....



## Tncowgirl76

Hello, I'm a new camper owner and I just joined the forum. I've been trying to learn everything I can so I do things correctly and don't harm anything on the camper in question.

My main question today is how to use the water heater on my camper for the first time. It was winterized and I know there's either an anode rod or drain plug for the camper, but I'm not sure where it would be. I've read you need to fill the water heater tank first before using the heater so I do know that so far. 

There's an electrical plug and hookup located on the water heater so I wondered if it still had to be lit using gas or if it would operate solely on electricity?

I have a pic of the water heater controls and box......I'm kinda at sea exactly how to operate it. I know where the pilot light is and how to light it, but what the electric cord is for, I'm not sure. It would be easier if I could just plug it up, but I'm not sure if it still has to be lit with propane.

Any help would be most appreciated....thank you!!

Oh, and the camper is a 2004 Gulfstream Conquest Lite.

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y23/kycowgirl92176/?action=view&current=IMG-20110904-00076.jpg


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## bobrussell

i think that w/h has the electric element where the plug/anode goes. it should operate on electricity but i've never used one. maybe some one else that has experience with one will chime in:10220:.


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## artmart

1. Make sure the bypass is disengaged (used to bypass the water heater when winterizing) and make sure ALL faucets are CLOSED.

2. Turn on the city water supply to the trailer. Besides the cold water coming to pressure the WH will also fill. Wait 10-15 minutes. While this is going on, turn on the COLD WATER faucets only including the indoor and outdoor showers. Allow the sputtering to occur as air and winterizing stuff is being evacuated.

3. Turn on the WH (wall panel) and this will then heat the water. Allow an hour or more.

4. Now turn on each HOT WATER faucet one at a time, closest ones first and allow them to sputter and to remove the winterizer until the water comes out hot. Your hot water heater and plumbing are now ready for use.

If this doesn't work, I have provided the steps assuming everything has gone well. If there are problems, post the best you can and we will respond.

As for your other questions, thanks for providing the picture. The wires are for the igniter and the control systems (temperature, etc.), The WH drain is at the very bottom of the WH and in the center below and behind the propane gas tube. You WILL need a wrench to remove it. You'll need to do this for two reasons - drain the tank when you are not using the trailer (in storage) and to check the anode rod. If the heater has an anode rod it will be attached to the plug. If the rod is severely corroded, then replacements can be found many places like RV stores and even hardware stores. You'll need to know the Make and Model of the unit to obtain the proper match. There is NO such thing as a universal replacement so DO NOT get one of those. It must be matched to maintain the right fit! Your WH heater may not have one, or look up the make and model and find out if there was supposed to be one.

I hope this helps!


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## Tncowgirl76

First of all, thanks so much for replying to my question. Secondly, Art, the electric cord seems to plug into the drain plug you described. Does this mean that this unit can operate solely on electricity? The other section of the cord has a regular plug for electricity.

And when you say to turn on the water heater using the wall panel, do you mean inside the camper? I don't recall seeing a switch inside for the water heater, but it's possible I've overlooked it.

Thanks!!


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## Tncowgirl76

Oh, and also where is the bypass lever? I have no clue where it is or even if I'm looking right at it.


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## dogbone

Looking at you pictures it looks like the drain is to the right of the electric plug. Is that an open hole there or does it just look that way in the picture? If it is a hole that is where the anode rod goes in or a plug. The plug to the left is for the electric element. If you can't find the rod, go to an RV store with the make and model number of yours. If it is the electric element, you will have to take it out to drain the HWH.
Your HWH will run on electric only and the gas is not needed to be on. Make sure there is water in the heater or you will ruin the electric element. Just plug the cord into an outlet.
Reading the instructions on the heater, it needs to get fired up manually from the outside. Turn the propane on and follow the instructions on the heater. It might take awhile for the gas to get there. Again, make sure there is water in it. It doesn't look like it has a electronic ignition. You might not have a switch inside. If you do it, will be around the gauges for your black and grey tanks. Probably on a kitchen wall.
The water valves are in the trailer are somewhere close to the HWH itself. There is probably an access panel or a cabinet door right in front of where the HWH is, on the inside of the trailer. There will be at least two valves. Open the line in, cold side and close the other, the bypass, which should go to the hot water line out.
Hope I explained things good and you get it figured out. Let us know.
Just thought of this. Do a search of the make and model number of the heater. You might be able to download the instructions.


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## artmart

Like dogbone already mentioned, if you have a bypass lever it will be on the opposite side of the WH inside the trailer behind some panel or cabinet door. The former owner/user should have told you about this and in fact, how to operate everything in the rig. It appears you did not get a walkthrough on how to use all parts of the rig. There will be subtle differences that are typically discussed and learned. The WH is one of these.

I still think the center plug is the drain, but agree that it looks like there are 2 pins coming out of it. Maybe the heater does not have an anode and the pins are for power to use a different method to protect the WH tank when there is no anode. I just don't know on this one. All trailers I've had used an anode.

On closer examination it looks like there's a cap behind the propane inlet that might fit over what I've called the drain plug. But I don't know if this is for a heating element (I doubt it) or an electrical connection to protect the tank if there is no anode rod (I don't know). It may have been disconnected since the rig was winterized and this had to be removed as part of the draining and winterizing process.

A better picture from bottom (and top) angles might help us to identify more. The current picture with the propane lines in front are obscuring what else is behind it.

The WH COULD be a 2way system. A 2way has an electric element that can be enabled when connected to shore power to help heat up the water quicker than just on Propane. It could also be used if you want to conserve propane (for winter furnace use, for example). It's hard to tell without a better picture.

Even with the involved instructions sometimes a manufacturer can rig a trailer for use with an interior panel, but the instructions are pretty clear and common on the how to light the WH. But you must flush the water heater and RV plumbing thoroughly to remove any winterizing solution and to make sure the water heater has water.

I hope we get this figured out. If you post the make and model maybe we can help you find the instructions. You'll need to know more about the WH besides turning it on, like turning it off, draining, maintenance, problem solving, and winterizing.

BTW - I did scan through your pictures looking for more water heater pictures and saw that you've met the "Good Ole Hazard Boys", (Beau and Luke? names?). You might want to find them. Didn't they know how to fix pretty much everything? Or was that Uncle Jesse?


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## dogbone

Art, I just zoomed in on the drain plug, I see the two prongs. I'm thinking it is an after-market heating element. The original owner might have put it in where the drain plug goes/went. It's a possibility that the original element burnt out and they didn't want to go through the expense to fix it. That would explain why, the new owner said, it had a regular plug at the end of the wire. Usually the heating elements are hard wired in to 110, with a switch somewhere. My electric switch is on the outside of the unit, behind the propane lines. It's a bear to get to. 
It's just a thought. It is hard to tell. I would like a better look and a look at the electric cord itself, preferable one showing both ends.


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## artmart

Maybe that is a dual purpose plug. The prongs might be for the heating element AND the plug is removable so that the wires can be disconnected and this plug removed to drain the tank.

There should be a switch somewhere that turns this on and off. This would operate off 110v and only be available when connected to shore power. Otherwise use propane which is controlled by the square box, wires and knob to the left of the flue.

Here's a thought. How about calling the makers of Gulf Stream and either getting information or ordering a manual? I realize this won't solve the immediate problem of using the WH, but it will help in the long run or help get things started.

From the picture, the WH has a boatload of labels. Clean these off carefully to locate the make and model. I'm guessing the label with the information we need is on the rightmost edge of the water heater on the side. This one is up high so water doesn't impact it and the label doesn't look like it's made of paper so it lasts longer to preserve this information.


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## Tncowgirl76

I spoke to some people at a camper place and sent them the pic as well. They said that someone put in an electric heating element at the drain plug. They said to put one end of the cord in the prongs and plug the other end in an outlet. However, they never said anything about a power switch....is it possible there isn't one, it just needs to be plugged in?

I need to look inside to see if I can locate the bypass valve. There's a grill near the floor just under the refrigerator that can be unscrewed and taken off....maybe it's there?

I do have a manual for the water heater, but the instructions are so unclear and vague and there's nothing there about the electric cord, which obviously didn't come with it originally.


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## artmart

You need to measure where the WH is located on the outside then estimate where it is on the inside - behind a panel, inside a cabinet, behind a wall. The wall location of the fridge may help if they are on the same wall. The fridge will have two outside panels (one at top and one at bottom) these are used for ventilation. Then measure sideways from the WH. Then go inside and compare the locations. The bypass is typically on the inside of the WH location. You can get an idea of the whereabouts of the WH bypass from that, if they are on the same exterior wall. I don't think it's under the fridge since stacking a fridge and a WH are not usually done.

It is a BAD idea to NOT have a switch for the heating element. Since after market heating elements can be sold separately maybe this is what you have. If you don't have a separate switch for this then you need to look at the Power Distribution panel. See if you can find a circuit breaker labeled WH or water heater. It's need to be about 15 amps since these heating elements can be from 1,000 to 1,600 watts!

This is an item of concern!!! If the tank gets emptied and you don't have a switch to guarantee the element is turned off, and someone accidently plugs the trailer's cord into shore power, the heating element will also turn on and will overheat and break (you hope) without any water in the tank. Even worse, if the element does not break it can cause so much overheating in the tank it can start a fire.

Since the picture shows a cord not plugged in, maybe the thing is fried and this is done since there is no switch. Whatever the case, and it replaced the drain plug, there's a lot more to be aware about, when you are using the WH.

I think the manual is terse since the operating instructions are on the water heater. Since your WH heater has been modified this might be why you are having questions. I hope you get this figured out.


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## Tncowgirl76

Well, from what I can tell the cord to the heating element is completely separate from the trailer power.....meaning it plugs in independently or separately from the trailer. You see, not only is the cord not plugged into the drain plug, but the other end isn't plugged into anything either.

The folks at the trailer place said all I needed to do was fill the water heater tank, then just plug the cord into a power outlet. However, I forgot to ask where the bypass lever was located. It's dark outside right now.....I'll go out in the morning and see what I can find inside.


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## bobrussell

here is what i think you have (might be a different brand):
Hott Rod Electric Conversion 6 gallon Water Heaters Universal RV ..
you should Google it or get some info from some one who has one, that'd be the best way to figure it out.


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## Tncowgirl76

That might be it. The people at the camper place were looking at the same photo and seemed familiar with it. I don't think the power source is coming from the camper......it looks like a completely separate cord. That makes sense, I guess, if it were added later to the camper.


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## Tncowgirl76

Oh, by the way, Art, I think Cooter was the one that could fix anything on the Dukes of Hazzard.....that being said, the Duke boys were as nice as can be and they both can still sing well!


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## dogbone

It is an aftermarket heating element and won't have a switch. You just plug it in.
I think you will find that the grate your talking about is the furnace's air intake. 
The bypass will be at the opposite side of the external access panel. If it's behind a panel, on the inside of the trailer, there should only be a few screws hold it in place. You will need a square head screw driver to get them out. They don't usually make them to difficult to get at. I explained how to change the valves in a previous post. You can also open up the sink cabinet to get an idea which way the water lines run.
I'm thinking, the previous owner had a problem, that his why they put in the electric heating element.
I would try to fire it up on propane, once you get water to it. Just to see if it worked and to see what your dealing with here. Follow the instructions on the WH. They where on the outside. The pilot light is one of the two tubes going into the bottom of the WH. Use a bbq lighter. It might take some time for the air to bleed out. Again make sure the heater has water in it.

Do you live around Tom Wapat? He lived not far from me awhile back. I don't know if he still lives there, in Northern Jersey.


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## Tncowgirl76

I found the bypass lines. They were behind a grate under the refrigerator. I unscrewed the grate and found a hot and cold line. Both have a twist valve. Since the camper is currently still winterized, they were tight when you try to twist them clockwise. To open the valves I guess I twist counterclockwise?

The previous owner was a bachelor who used the camper to stay in while he was away working. He might have been too lazy to worry with lighting the propane part of the WH. Then again something might have been wrong. But at least it has the electrical element regardless.

The stove doesn't even look like it has been used so I'm guessing he might have been lazy.....who knows.

No, I don't live near Tom Wopat. He lives in New York right now I believe since he does shows on Broadway occasionally. I met he and John Schneider some time ago down here in Nashville, TN where I live. They are super nice guys and I chatted with Tom for quite a while.


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## dogbone

Ok, my bad. I wouldn't have thought they would have been there. I found this little video on how to winterize. It shows you the valves that need to be turned. I know it is winterizing, but it gives you a look at the valves you need to find. They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. You just have to do what is done, backwards. Hope it helps. The valves you found might not be the bypass valves.
Winterizing Your RV - Basden's American RV Center, Evansville, IN - YouTube 
I hope you get it figured out. Without actually looking at something its tough to explain things.


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## Tncowgirl76

Thanks for the help. The video did help though it appears my camper is laid out a bit differently. 

I took a pic of the water heater, but I'm still not entirely sure where the bypass levers are.....I found the lines, but I don't recall seeing a lever.....I will check again, but, in the meantime, here's a pic.

Watertown-20110907-00080.jpg picture by kycowgirl92176 - Photobucket


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## dogbone

They should be right by the heater on the hot and cold lines. It is possible that you don't have a bypass. I/we, assumed that because of the year of the trailer there was one. You know what happens when you assume.
You mentioned two valves on the hot and cold lines behind the grate. Is there a line connecting the two with a valve on it there or near by? If not open them. Remove the drain plug from the heater. Hook up the hose to the city water intake and turn it on. You should get water coming out of the heater, if there is no bypass. Turn the water off and replace the drain plug/heating element in your case. Open the pressure valve at the top of the heater. It has a lever on it and it is spring loaded. Lift the lever till it stays straight out, like they did in the winterizing video. Turn your water back on. Your heater will fill up. When the water starts to come out of the pressure valve put the lever back down. Your tank is full. Open the faucets in the trailer. Start with the hot closest to the heater. Just crack it. You will hear air and some antifreeze come out. When it runs smooth and no color,close the faucet. Do the same to the cold side. Just work your way down the lines the same way. Flush your toilet as well. Make sure your gray and black tank drain valves are shut or you will have water all over.
It would be better if you had someone to keep an eye on things, in the trailer, to make sure there are no leaks, when you turn the water on.
It is also possible the previous owner never put anti freeze in the trailer. He might have just blew the lines out with air for the winter.
Good luck and let us know how you make out. I wish I could have been able to look at it, to see what your dealing with. I was kinda hoping you where close by when you talked about Luke. It would have been a lot easier.


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## artmart

In this picture there is no bypass of any kind. The line on the bottom is the cold water inlet from the fresh water tank or the city water supply (white plastic). And the red plastic line is the hot water line that goes out to the hot water faucets.

I am going to explain somethings the best I know but I have never personally winterized my rig since I don't need to. But this information comes from people who tell me what they do, and quite honestly, you might want to research this further if you have had a rig that was winterized.

I know of two ways to winterize a rig and we haven't discussed these, so here goes.

In the first method I don't know what happens to the hot water heater when it's winterized when the "solution is used" and it is not bypassed. This solution (aka "the pink stuff") is similar to Coolant (which is poisonous and you do not want in your fresh water pipes) except that it is intended for RV winterizing and fresh water systems and therefore safer to use.

The solution mixed with water prevents freezing pipes, then must be drained completely when you want to use the rig. I do not know if a sanitation process must be used afterwards but I would certainly do this. The sterilization process includes the hot water heater and therefore the bypass, if equipped should be disabled.

The second method is air. With a special hose, you connect a compressor, then blow the air out of the lines so there is no water left in the system that freezes. However, I'm not sure it is possible to completely drain the hot water tank since the drain always seems to be a little higher than the low point, at least mine is and the is always a little bit of water left over. Maybe if the compressor is strong enough it will blow this water out too. BE CAREFUL not to use too much air pressure or you'll break something. Maybe an internet search on this procedure will tell you how much psi to use.

After all these posts, we have contributed as much as we can, much of it redundant which helps to justify what we have posted, however, we don't know it or what your problem is? Is there a problem? If so, what is it? We've discussed a lot, don't know what winterizing process you used, and if you've sanitized your system. Much of what we posted as answers and even though it was mentioned, you don't have a bypass, but it's not the end of the world.

Have you tried your water heater yet? Are the fresh water lines cleaned out and ready to use? Is the water tank working? Have we helped you enough, yet? Of course, if there's more question, please ask away and I hope we can help.

Cheers!


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## Tncowgirl76

You guys have helped immensely. I didn't winterize this unit, it was winterized when I bought it and I haven't had a chance to use it. I've been doing little things to it ever since I bought it.....nothing major, just general maintenance.

It's the first time I've bought a camper and I'm just trying to familiarize myself with it so I don't damage it accidentally. I'm getting close to being able to use it and I just wanted to see what I needed to do.

I may end up living in it this winter as well so I'm trying to research that as well. I really, really appreciate your help. It's been a lifesaver!!!


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## old_guy_camping

artmart said:


> BE CAREFUL not to use too much air pressure or you'll break something. Maybe an internet search on this procedure will tell you how much psi to use.


I have one of these - 45 PSI max


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## artmart

tncowgirl76, I congratulate your trying to learn as much as you can. There are a lot more systems to learn about and asking questions is the first step. You can protect yourself from dishonest service folks who prey on the ignorance of anyone. You'll be a step ahead, at least for the Water Heater.

Best of luck to you as you proceed!


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## Tncowgirl76

Okay, I went out of town this weekend and when I got back today I hooked up the city water line and ran water throughout the trailer. Opened all cold water faucets until the air was out. I could hear the hot water heater filling up, so I turned on the hot faucets and they ran so the water is getting to the heater.....it must have no bypass.

I decided to run water into the fresh water tank and turn on the water pump to make sure all that was good. The tank filled up (I took the seat off of one of the kitchen benches to watch the pump and tank) but when I quit filling it, the pump kept running and the water level started to lower. I was puzzled because I had turned off all the faucets and thought that the pump should have shut off. I heard water hitting the ground outside and went out to the other side of the camper and saw water gushing out of the city water hookup. I didn't find any sort of shut off value for the city line. What do I do to prevent water from running out of that line? Is there something I'm supposed to hook up on it to shut it off? Thanks again!!


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## bobrussell

there's usually a check valve in the line just inside the wall at the point the hose hooks up. this valve could be bad or maybe not even there???

mine went out several years ago and i just went to walmart and bought a hose cut-off for about a dollar (it's just a brass valve you screw on the end of a water hose to turn it off or on). screw it on to your hook-up then the hose to it. i open the valve whenever i hook up to water and cut it off whenever i unhook. 

works so well i never got around to actually fixin' it:thumbup1:.


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## Tncowgirl76

Okay....that would work. I looked inside the camper, took off a grate so I could look at the wall where the outside city water is located and didn't see any way to cut it off so I figured something might have been bad.

I'll grab one of those hose cutoffs.....sounds like it would be the easiest and most inexpensive solution. Thanks!!


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## hideout

young lady!
the electric water heater element will only keep your water hot,it will not heat it up,you will need to use your gas to heat the water up then turn off your gas and the electric will keep it hot,my trailer is a 2011 keystone hide out,and that was the first lession i learned at the walk through was to make sure i filled the tank with water then make sure the drain was closed on my water heater,and allso to turn on all my faucets after hooking up my water supply to my trailer,because you will need to get all the air and winterization out of your lines.:10220:


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## Tncowgirl76

I was told that the after market heating element will heat the water up, it just will take a lot longer than gas.


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## dogbone

I'm glad you got everything up and running.You will learn the rest of the little quirks as you go. Oh and have fun camping.
I like Bob's idea about the shut off. When I winterize my friends trailer, I put one of those Y's on it and close the valves. He doesn't use his holding tank, so I take it back off in the spring. Bob's way, I just leave it on. Thanks Bob. 
If you plan on using the fresh water holding tank, I would put some bleach in it, pump it through the lines, let it sit for a day. Then drain the tank, put fresh water in and flush out the system. If the tank /trailer has been sitting everything could be kind of funky. About a cup of bleach should do it. I do it every year when I de- winterize my trailer.


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## hideout

Tncowgirl76 said:


> I was told that the after market heating element will heat the water up, it just will take a lot longer than gas.


 i thought that allso,and the dealer that sold me my trailer imformed me other wise,and my trust issue with salesman is not good so i contacted one of there tech guys who replace water heaters,and he is the one who gave me the information on what the electrical part of my water heater will do.


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